Let other Greek islands claim this god or that goddess. Ikaria is the mythical birthplace of wildman Dionysus, the god of wine, vegetation and pleasure. His divine touch is apparent everywhere, from the dazzling burst of wildflowers in the spring to the lush and mountainous terrain, mantled with cypress trees, pine forests, vineyards and fruit orchards. Dionysus would not be too astonished by the look of the island he left millennia ago, for tiny Ikaria remains one of the most unspoiled in the northeastern Aegean group.
Most of the island’s 8,500 residents live in the kind of sleepy stone villages where old men while away the afternoons playing dominoes in a shady square. Even the rugged coastline, which would be spackled with hotels on most Greek islands, has been left remarkably peaceful. Armenistis, on the northern shore, is the closest Ikaria comes to a resort and a magnet for sun-worshippers who oil up and grill on one of the town’s two long sandy beaches. Even more beautiful are the beaches at nearby Livadia and Mesahti, with their striking mountain backdrops. Extreme tanners can eliminate their bikini lines at the nearby nude beach of Nas. A more therapeutic experience is available at the hot springs of Therma and Lefkada on the southern coast, which have been providing soaks to the stressed since Homer’s day. Escaping other visitors is no problem in Ikaria. The coast is littered with idyllic coves, many of which are accessible only on foot. Should you feel inspired to do something more active than doze under the pine trees on a secluded beach, head inland for a refreshing country stroll or a more demanding mountain hike. It’s said that Icarus flew too high, melted his wings and dropped into the sea near Ikaria. Could he have been trying to get a better view of this magical island?
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